onsdag 19. november 2008

Loco times in Kurdistan

Monday 17th of October 2008

I have to apologize for not adding any new contributions for a long time now. The latest three weeks I have been very busy. I name this one for “Loco times in Kurdistan”, though I really do not mean it entirely. We are leaving Kurdistan on Thursday night to Friday, and have to admit that I am not that glad for it. We all have obligations in our lives, and as H. says; “there is a difference between need and want. There are things that need to be done, and they may differ from what we want to do”.

Our coordinators from Norway came for two weeks ago and stayed here for some days. Before ending their trip, after visiting some organizations, we all came to reach the same conclusions; this country has a long way to go though it has developed substantially the latest years. Somehow no matter how tall the buildings become, and how beautiful the city develops, it does not really matter. The difficulties lie in the programming and building of the most important institutions like proper health and school system. This year about 21 000 high school graduates were not admitted to any higher education or any other educational institutions; this means that we have about 21 000 youth hanging around in the Kurdistan area without anything important to do, without any mission of the year. I wonder how many of them will try to flee the country? This is caused by many reasons. When there was peace in south Iraq, lots of students were admitted to the universities in there; now the total pressure is on the Kurdistan area. Secondly, lack of universities (buildings, classrooms, lecture halls etc.) compared to the ratio of students is another one. The student/teacher ratio is third reason. And these are just a few among many.

Last week for the first time in my life I a met a person who had tried to commit suicide by putting herself on fire. During the interview, one of the bobbles (damage caused by the fire), burst and body fluids run from her fingertips. She was shivering and did her very best to focus and concentrate to be able to answer our questions. And I will never forget her eyes; wide open eagle eyes. I hope she will be alright throughout her life.

I also went to the “mazat xanai sarawa” (for those of you who know where that is). The human rights monitoring group found several children who all had quit school to provide income for their families by selling pornographic DVDs.

And now for the finali; we experienced an explosion in Suleimanya today. It was close to the main street, Salim Street (jadai swholaka) near by the buildings of the political party, Patriotic Union of Kurdistan. The news said that it was caused by gas explosions in the underground sewage system; one man injured, 4 cars destroyed and the street was divided into two parts for about 200 meters. I was standing about 150 meters away from the place of “accident”; It felt like an earth quick. People gathered to help, hundreds of police men, security police and fire trucks arrived. It was chaotic.

My final comments are that I do not believe in that the explosion was caused by gas. Why then close to the buildings of one of the main political parties? Without making a final decision rather it was or not a planned terrorist attack, still my assumption is that it was planned by terrorists.

The last contribution to this blog will be given from Norway.



LOCO C...

mandag 17. november 2008

Beautiful mixture

View from Jiyan Hotel in Duhok

The old cita del in Kirkuk

Child worker in Erbil

søndag 26. oktober 2008

Invalid space for women

A contributon to H`s ------HARD TIMES

As I entered Cwar Cra Hotel in Hewler (Erbil), I couldn’t stop receiving a vibe of staring eyes towards my friend and I. Two unmarried girls, entering this Hotel, 8 pm local Kurdistani time, was an unknown phenomena for the staff and the other man guests in the lobby. Miss, do you want to eat? No, kaka, we are here just because of work. We are expecting someone to arrive. Those whom I was expecting informed me that because of some difficulties in Koye they would be approximately an hour late. The receptionist couldn’t stop staring, and somehow, I understood that he was putting a question mark on our appearance in the lobby. Why are these girls sitting here alone? Why are they not being accompanied by a male guest, or any other form of leading role? At the end, he couldn’t help himself any longer, he pointed at me, ordering me to approach the desk. Every single person in the lobby followed my steps towards him. What is going on?

To chi akai lera? What are you doing here? Why are you here? Who are you expecting? Who are you? ETC....

At the end of a long and difficult conversation, I asked him if he was finished with the investigation and if I would help him any further. No, thanks, go and sit. We know the owner of the Hotel, and we spoke with him. He was begging for forgiveness, and was deeply apologizing. As if it could ever heal my bleeding heart. Is he apologizing of behalf of most of the men sitting in the lobby staring at us too? Is he apologizing on behalf of most of the staff? Is he apologizing on behalf of the way we (some of us- not to generalize) bring up our children to believe that the fittest space for women to act in is the private one?

Invalid space for independent women who are trying to work (and not the kind of work he was aiming at), but an honest job for the contribution and the purpose of developing Kurdistan. I am just glad that one of the staff members at the Hotel came to us after this receptionist had this very nerve breaking investigation with me. Why do you girls look so sad? Because of that mister in the desk. Miss, I saw what he did. He had no right to. He did not ask any of the other guests why they were there. It is not his right to ask about such things. You should complain to the owner, it is your right. ...........

I remember from previous contributions that I put empasis on the importance of breaking cultural codes or at least pushing some of the limits, so people can get used to other point of views. In this moment, it just seemd useless. The other staff memeber was the light in my darknes.. I thank ypu!

Invalid C...

mandag 20. oktober 2008

Hard times



Last week was definetly one of the hardest weeks in Kurdistan. It's not the lack of electricity, lack of water or anything material. I could survive in a tent! (Yes I can,I've found that out)

It's the things you don't think about when you've grown up in Europe. The fact that you can pack up and go for a long walk,and no one would care. The fact that you can be a single woman and sit in a cafe with your laptop, and the waiter wouldn't approach you as if you were a prostitute. These are all things I cherish about "The West"!


The week in Duhok showed me just how hostile some people are to change. It's not the new generation, they thrive when being informed and taught about democracy and human rights.

It's the few parasites that still want to control the situation and wipe out any form of development. These voices were heard throughout our trip last week.

At a workshop where our participants were university students a few unwelcome guests made their views about "us westerners" quite heard. It's too complicated to fully go into,but it's a lose lose situation when it comes to reaching out to some here in Kurdistan.

When having nothing left to criticize, one of these "elders" attacked me for not speaking too good in Kurdish. The students (who the workshop was really for) corrected this man and told him that my Kurdish was flawless! Take that,you mean mean man!


If you try to show them that the West also has miscalculated things,and that looking up to them is sometimes dangerous, they criticize you for not knowing enough about Kurdistan. If you then tell them that some issues from the Western thinking should be implemented you are accused of being an orientalist.


Well well, I guess this was a wake up call.
/H


søndag 19. oktober 2008

Wedensday Oct. 9th



Workshop for the WCDI (Women can do it), a project designed to encourage women to participate in local politics and politics in general.

The week long course consisted of lectures in economy, politics and women's rights.


The last day of the course C and I were invited to hold a 4 hour workshop for them. I had a little presentation about the philosophical views of the 18th century Europe and countered them with a little bit of de Beauvoir.

Then we had a few games, just to see how they viewed women in the public sphere. All in all it was a good day. Needless to say, the participants were all women.
/H

søndag 5. oktober 2008

Tribal law kills those lost in space

Wednesday 24th of September

For almost 14 nights in road I have been sleeping outside on the roof of mu aunt`s house. What a glorious feeling, it cannot be described as even perfect. While discovering thousands of stars and a silent surrounding, I was every single night right before falling asleep, lost in space. One night it got cold, so I moved my “bed” inside. As little afraid as I am, I made it a challenge 5 days after, and tried to sleep outside again. Well, what a huge mistake. About midnight right outside my aunt`s garage some persons were shooting at each other. I have no idea why or who they were, but I can reassure you that I covered my head very safely under my blanket as though it was bullet proof. All the neighbors came out to check what was going on. Well, I was so sick this night. I had a flue for two days which got worse on me this same night as I was stupid enough to sleep outside. Finally, I do not know who was shooting or why, but I did moved my “bed” inside again. Do you believe me when I say that I really look forward to the night I can sleep outside again?

These kinds of shootings are not unusual phenomena here; it happens every now and then. For two weeks ago, there was a big shooting drama in the city center. The court is located in the city center in the heart of the bazaar (down town shopping area), and two persons were brought from jail to be trialed. When they got out of the police vehicle, their family was standing there with their guns ready to rescue them from imprisonment. One policeman, one of the prisoners and a lawyer died, and a whole bunch of people got arrested. Talk about taking matters into your own hands, and not trusting the law and court system to judge fair and equally for everyone and politically independently without any form of corruption. While this action scene was going on down town, a lot of peoples` lives were put in danger to get killed by the hands of those shooting. Happy to inform that the new court halls (which are under construction) are located outside the city center.

To end this session even more sadly, the fight between the peshmerges of KRG and the Baghdad soldiers are still ongoing. The central government has decided to put a new border control station right besides the one already existing there, the one under the peshmerges supervision.

C. the space walker

Healing service

Friday 26th of September

Every single time I am here I try to tell myself not to forget that it almost customary law that workers in service oriented business does not need to show the customer respect nor be willing to deliver any kind of service. Off course you find very kind and polite people in the bazaar, trying their very best to sell you what ever in their shops, but every now and then you will find an office worker who does not answer you politely, or the women in the shopping mall who does not even look at you while shopping in her boutique. Or the hair dresser who tells you that you are so spoiled while drags your hair out from its roots. You have to beg for mercy half an hour in beforehand; “please, please, please do not cut my hair short! I like it as it is. Please do not cut the length!” These were the words coming out of my mouth last Friday the 26th of September telling the hair dresser. We were recommended a hairdresser who moved his shop from Baghdad to Suleimany “Sami” in Sharchnar. Well, one of the female workers took a grab on my hair and did reinsure me that she would not cut it short, not more than two fingers (even demonstrating it with putting two fingers towards eachother). I bet she took six fingers. Well, I should have learned until now. The same thing happened last time too in 2005, but it was much worse than now. Immediately I was a bit upset and even the rest of the day, but before falling asleep this Friday night I found myself smiling widely from ear to ear. I was thinking that if the biggest problem in Kurdistan and Iraq was hair (remember it does actually grow out faster than we expect), then the solution is just a piece of cake. But it is not something that grows again; this country needs healing…

C. in search of alternative medicine.

Mental programming

Friday the 19th of September

H., her relatives, my cousin and I spend a wonderful evening in this most extreme American inspired bowling hall. The evening of the 19th of September was warm enough to stay outside. I am describing this event very shortly just to mention the main point; we smoked nargile (water pipe) in the garden. It awakened such a peaceful feeling within due to the simple reason; it was breaking cultural codes. It made me happy though I am aware that it may sound a bit foolish. Somehow it is not ok for women to smoke in Kurdistan, and this view of women smoking was a bit strange for the men. The small bushes settled for the purpose of defining the line between the areas where the men and families could sit seperated were so simplistic that all the men were looking into the “forbidden zone”. Do you get the picture or do you need a further demonstration? I think these breakages of cultural codes will change the mentality of the people. The main challenge in the mental programming of the people is to find courage enough fighters who most surely will in the first face loose all the battles.

C. is for cultural shorish (revolution) in Kurdistan.

Fun times

The ever so famous "Tûy Malik"
The man in my life,also known as grandpapa
Kele u pache,ser u pe..a delight

First day of work back from eid.

Today we'll plan the workshop that C and I will hold on thursday. It will be quite interesting.

I thought I'd just post some photos from my week off.
/H

onsdag 1. oktober 2008

Sorry sorry sorry

I'm sorry for not blogging for a while, we're in the middle of the muslim holiday also known as "Eid" and "Cejn". It can be compared to christmas, with food and sweets and visits from family and friends.

Next week will be a week full of activity. C and I have a workshop to present during a week-long course prepared by the organization for their trainers. It will be interesting to translate a western form of gender-democracy workshop into a Kurdish context,and also into the Kurdish language. The organization hasn't been good at engaging us in the organization's work. In fact, they have not tried to integrate us in their activities. I've given up trying to push them ,and will just go with the flow.

Tonight we went up to Sar chinar again, walked around in the chilly weather and stopped at restaurant Paris. We ordered grilled fish, and it grilled on the fire right infront of our eyes. Kurdish fish, under kurdish skies with a mix of Arab and Kurdish friends. This might be the life...

/H

ps: I miss the one with the green eyes..

torsdag 25. september 2008

Workshop in Kirkuk 22-23d of September




These pictures are from a three day workshop in Kirkuk.
The city is quite run down, with farm animals as a part of traffic. Being from the city of Kirkuk I have many fond memories of lovely friday evenings,but seeing the state of my "hometown" brought me back to reality.
The workshop was about gender and the different types of abuse on women. There was one woman among the participants, and she said "this is the way we live,and it's how it is" when asked about the treatment of women in the Kurdish iraqi society.
The workshop was held in the local offices of the communist party in Iraq. I found the pictures of Stalin and Lenin very amusing, these people look up to them as ideologies. It says something about the progress of Iraq.
All in all it was a good workshop, filled with very interesting men and woman.
The question is, will this stay with them as the ideology of Stalin does?

søndag 21. september 2008

Lovely



The moon...

Under Kurdish skies (september 19th)

What can one do when it’s the weekend here, and no work to go to?
Well, one can do what every other fun loving Kurd/Iraqi does; indulge yourself in absolute fun!
My aunt, a few cousins and I decided to go bowling at the famous Suleymani Bowling center.
C decided to join us along with her sweet cousin. When we arrived, we were starving and decided to eat at the outside restaurant. The smell of shishia (water pipe) had me hypnotized from the moment I sat down and I decided to order the apple flavored one right after I’d finished my interesting pizza.

The weather was so lovely and the sky so mesmerizing that I almost wanted to cry from happiness. Imagine being able to move back to your homeland, live in absolute safety and have every facility a rich country like this is supposed to offer its citizens. I hope that day is close by.

Back to the lovely nargila: We were ofcourse sitting in the family section of the restaurant because single men shouldn’t be sitting amongst girls. I couldn’t care less; I just wanted to have my tea and nargila in peace while watching some wonderful songs they were displaying on the big screen TV. As we enjoyed, three sophisticated ladies among many families, we noticed that some were shocked at our behavior. I suppose women here don’t smoke in public but I couldn’t care less now either! We ordered a new flavor of nargila, the mint taste and it was even lovelier. We stayed until it was too cold to sit there without a jacket and marched away a little dizzy but also a bit triumphant. We showed them that women can claim just as much space as men!
/H

onsdag 17. september 2008

A new week in Sul.

Tuesday 16th of September 2008

On Saturday, after a relaxing and nice weekend, the first day at the office in Sul. started again. I have to admit that I was a bit annoyed by the fact that something was going on in the organization, and that somehow it was not to be shared with the newly arrived ones. Well, the organization has gone through a lot of changes the latest three months because of financial issues from the Norwegian ministry of foreign affairs. Though it is easy to forget the fact that Iraq is not defined as a developing country, after the US military operation in 2003, the whole world society has send a lot of aid here to improve the situation, besides Afghanistan off course. It is very typical that local NGOs in countries which are in a developing process and are very dependent on aid from foreign countries, to get into an organizational crisis when the aid is decreasing drastically. Some few hardworking and strong local Iraqi NGOs are getting financed through project proposals and project budgets. In a country such as Iraq where the civil society is not that strong compared to the private and the public sphere, and the public financing is very low to the strengthening of this sphere, such project funding will make the organizations existence dependent on foreign aid.

Anyway, before arriving Kurdistan, I did not have high expectations about the work here. Somehow I had drawn a mental picture of how the work in PDA would look like. After the first day, H and I decided to make our own plans about our work in the organization, afterwards get approval from the leaders and then start our work to obtain the plans, and at the same time, reach our objectives. Now we are in step 3; we drew a plan and got it approved by the leader, and now we are preparing some workshops. Today H had her first meeting with the people in the Cultural Development Desk; tomorrow I have with the Human Rights Desk (if they do not postponed it further more). To be continued.

The latest days there has been a horrifying sand storm all over the Kurdistan province; it is absolutely terrible. I have allergy against dust, and can reassure you that I have been feeling down a lot lately. This morning I woke up to the beautiful sight of a bloody pillow; the bleeding from my nose would not stop. My uncle who works in the hospital told me that this is a sign of a strong reaction on the dust created by the sand storm. I even left work earlier than usual. On my way home, I saw some people wearing white (dentist look alike) masks covering their mouth for the sake of protection against the sand and dust.

For some days ago some peshmerges got killed in Xaneqin. The conflict in Xaneqin between the KRG and the central Baghdad government is still not solved. They are fighting over the authoritative control over the Kirkuk province. They found some burned Korans in the toilets of a mosque in Suleimany, and this is a major subject now. I find these actions as very disrespectful; it really takes away the understanding and the tolerance among humans in such societies which are not homogenous neither when it comes to ethnicity nor religion. Such actions stimulate the hate engine to blossom up more conflicts and the uprising of new civil wars.

For each day passing by, my grandfather is getting sicker and sicker. Since yesterday his speaking ability has been dramatically reduced. For the two weeks I have been here, he even lost his walking ability. One of the leaders in PDA informed me that Alzheimer has increased a lot in Kurdistan. I wonder why.

C..

Hewler, the other Kurdistan?

Sunday 14th of September
What is different about Hewler?

2005: The autumn of 2005 I was attending a course that lasted for some months in Hewler. I did not like Hewler because I found the mentality of the inhabitants (as general and rude as it may seem) as very conservative and traditional. And when I paid a visit to Suleimany, I liked my city of birth much more.

2007: In November 2007 I came back to Hewler for the first time since 2005. I did not have high expectations before reaching the city because of bad experiences from my past. It had changed a lot; the buildings and the physical infrastructure. They were working really hard on improving the roads to the extent it can bear the high increase of cars since 2003 (SUVs, Mercedes, BMWs etc). It was more expensive than Suleimany, and by the first glance of the eye everything seemed to me as a bit improved. On that ground I expected that the mentality of people also had changed a bit since then. I observed that there were less women outside in the city center (in the area of the main bazaar close to the fortress Cita Del (Qala)) compared to the city center of Suleimany. Women were wearing much more covering clothing, and men were literally staring at women passing by much more than in Suleimany. My second judgment; the city looked nicer while the mentality and city culture was still the same as before. Off course these judgments are putting forward a black and white picture of the world though it is not my intention, but I do emphasis the point that these are all mine personal and subjective opinions as a private person.

2008: Last week was my third trip to Hewler, and I have to admit that I was a bit shocked. Even from the three days stay in November 2007, things had changed again. Usually I find places and direction easily (sense of direction), but this city is developing so fast I cannot follow the changes. The city council (or maybe KRG) has spent thousands of dollars on the environmental issues. They have invested in planting trees and other green(ish) plants to first of all improve the looks of the city, make use of the threes as protection against all the sand coming from the south part areas, and thirdly be able to get rid of some of the CO2 discharge. Still I was waiting to meet the same mentality as before. The people I met from Hewler in PDA`s offices, they are all very highly educated, open and social people. In the way I understood them; people who believed in equality between the two sexes, and human beings. And then one evening about 22.00 we went to the city centre (2 male, 4 female and a child) to get some sweets after having dinner (shirini in Kurdish). There were not one single female other than us there; even more children outside with their fathers, brothers, uncles (male leaders), but not a single female figure to find.

The questions are; has it really changed? What are the changes besides the improvement of the buildings?

As I told you, H and I hooked up with some friends from Norway, and we had a great time at B2B restaurant. And somehow together we came to the same conclusion; it is difficult to live in Kurdistan (no matter where in Kurdistan areas) but still not impossible. It really depends on what your “mission” is, what kind of ideologies you base your life on and what are the objectives of your life. To decide on whether these changes are positives or not, if they are nothing more than “building castles in the sky” is difficult to say. I do not believe that all of these changes are factors that will supply to a sustainable development, but at least they have created something that is floating in the air. Somehow it is a mixture of negative peace, strong capitalism and strong opportunism.

If I have to make a final conclusion about the changes and developments in Hewler, it will be the same conclusions about the changes and development in Suleimany. The city of Hewler looks nicer, and it is the capital of the Kurdistan province, therefore a lot of resources are send to that center of happenings. The Dubaization of Hewler is easier than to make it in Suleimany. To live in Hewler or Suleimany is basically the same. Everyone is working hard to make a living, to fill up the basic human needs and to be happy. The lack of electricity and water is the same, the political situation is still unstable, the school system is almost down, and capitalism is steering the mentality of people. The so called collectivism is controlling many social relations, the rationality of the people and the behavior of human interaction in the society, except when it comes to economical matters. The survival of the fittest (the one with most money is the strongest ideological foundation for many in this matter.

For me it does not matter any longer where I will live in Kurdistan, I just know one thing; I need an interesting and somehow a rewarding job to keep me going on here. I hope we, the next generation can contribute to a positive peace building.

Positive C..

tirsdag 16. september 2008

On track?

Work ended on a good note. I think I am begining to be known as the joker in the office.
Today we had one of those typical Kurdish discussions about our own city and how superior it is to other cities. Regionalism is something to joke about, but I do enjoy to provoke smug Suleymanis.

I had my first meeting with the field officer of the Cultural Development desk.
Mr. Muwafaq as he is called, had a gathering with three trainers, one of them being me. Currently we are planning a workshop on gender and sexology. I was given the task of putting together a presentation about gender and the aspects of it which are constructed. I told Mr. M that my approches are academic and that I will include De Beauvoir and Kant, but this seemed to excite him more. The only really difficult task is now to translate ontology and feminism into Kurdish.
I will appreciate any help I can get.

I'm going out with the family for some night shopping. The stores are open past midnight so this is a normal ritual.
Give my love to the West.
/H

søndag 14. september 2008

Monday

Yesterday I was finally informed on what my tasks will be in this organization. Basically I will write and hold seminars about gender and gender equality. I can also work with the other trainers in forming other workshops on cultural aspects. C and I will also have our own parallel schedule going on, as we will work with different departments/desks in this organization, such as women's rights, youth and human rights monitoring.
I believe that we will also travel around Kurdistan to see how the other offices of this organization works. It's all very exciting because I will basically set my own rules, and be in a position to make a few changes while I'm here. Time to see if my talk can be put into action.
/H

Civil Society Building

For more information about important civil socitey workers:

Nansen school: http://www.nansenskolen.no/
Norwegian Peace Centre: http://fredssenter.no/wb/
Nansen Dialog Network: http://www.nansen-dialog.net/
Norwegian People`s Aid: http://norskfolkehjelp.no/
People`s Development Association: http://www.xelik.com/
People`s Development Association (Freedom of Expression): http://www.cawyxelik.com